Fitzroy is a seafood-led restaurant and natural wine cellar based in a converted Victorian bank in Fowey. Owners David Gingell and Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim, who have already successfully established three neighbourhood restaurants in London, are proud of their deep-rooted local and sustainable philosophy which remains the same, except here in this Cornwall town, the small plates take more of a seafood slant.
Inside, the eatery has a homely atmosphere, modern decor, and open-plan seating. Split across two floors, Fitzroy has a 10-cover kitchen counter, a first-floor private room inside the wine cellar, and an upstairs private dining area looking out over an open kitchen. The staff here are friendly, enthusiastic, and upbeat.
Its close proximity to the sea means that daily catches take centre stage on the menu. With a nose-to-tail ethos, they serve whole fish including fish heads which are an item in their own right, and they try to offer a whole spectrum of what’s available in the sea and not just the most popular fish. Fish heads are grilled, rested in fish stock with lemon juice which forms a gelatinous sauce with bread. If there’s roe they cure for seasoning or salads and the fins are used for fish stock.
The wine list hosts approachable bottles from smaller ethical producers and some fine older vintages. In addition, expect local cider and beer as well as their own vermouth.
Gingell, who grew up in Cornwall, adds that the menu features the same ‘uncomplicated’ cooking as the pair’s London restaurants but with a ‘touch more precision’.
Fitzroy is open each evening from Tuesday – Sunday and you can expect menu items such as fried turbot, cuttlefish with white beans, pork leg, and pappardelle with beef heart ragu.